Hockey Sticks

Flex refers to the stiffness of the stick – technically, the "flex number" is the amount of pressure required to bend the stick one inch.

In determining what flex is best for you, a good rule of thumb is to divide your body weight (in pounds) by 2. Example: If you weigh 160 pounds, a good starting point would be an 80 flex stick.

But it's also important to bake in height, as shown here:

TLDR? Watch the video here instead: 

A hockey stick pattern refers to the specific shape and curve of the blade. Different patterns are designed to optimize performance for various playing styles and positions.

Finding the right pattern for you is about fit – but there are a few important things to keep in mind.

The heel, mid, and toe refer to where in the blade most of the "curve" lies. Players focused on generating high-velocity slapshots (like defensemen) might prefer a heel; those whose games center on handling and control may prefer toe, and most will find "mid" curves to their liking. Many patterns fall between two of the three.

Pro stock sticks are custom-made sticks created by manufacturers for high-level hockey players - anywhere from the NHL down to major junior. These customizations can apply to features such as flex profiles, blade patterns, shaft dimensions, paint jobs, and almost anything else you can think of.

Generally, pro stock sticks are made with slightly different (and higher quality) materials than their retail counterparts, often leading to better durability and overall performance. Players and resellers alike can get a hold of these sticks - new and used - from pro, college, and junior teams, and many of them end up for sale on SidelineSwap.

Pro stock sticks will sometimes be “dressed” to look like different models, so always check descriptions and ask sellers to make sure you know what you’re buying.

Taping the blade protects it and improves puck control. You will need cloth hockey tape (black or white, typically 1-inch wide)

• Start at the blade's toe (front edge), leaving about ½ inch of overhang if you want to cover the edge.
• If you don’t want to cover the toe, start at the flat surface of the blade.
• Wrap the tape around the blade in overlapping passes. Each wrap should cover about half the width of the previous one. Keep the tape smooth and wrinkle-free.
• Continue wrapping until you reach the blade's heel, then tear or cut the tape neatly.
• If you've wrapped over the toe, use scissors to cut along the blade's edge for a clean look.
• Rub the taped blade with a hockey puck or your hand to smooth the tape and ensure it sticks well.

Taping the handle provides better control and a personalized grip.

• Begin by wrapping the tape around the very top of the stick to create a knob. This helps prevent the stick from slipping out of your hand.
• Wrap it multiple times until you achieve your desired thickness.
• After creating the knob, continue wrapping the tape down the shaft in a spiral pattern.
• Adjust the spacing based on your grip preference. Some players like wider gaps, while others prefer tighter wraps.
• Optional additions:
  • Ribbed Grip: Use a shoelace or extra tape to create ridges along the handle before wrapping over them for added texture.
  • Wax: Apply hockey stick wax on the tape to make it tackier and help with moisture resistance.

Tips:

• Color Choice: Use black tape for better puck concealment or white tape to reduce stick marks visibility.
• Change Tape Regularly: Replace the tape when it’s frayed, dirty, or no longer sticky.
• Avoid Over-Taping: Too much tape adds unnecessary weight to your stick.

Watch how he does it 👇

Cheaper sticks, which typically start around $50, are significantly heavier, making them less maneuverable and harder to handle. As you move up in price, sticks become lighter, offering improved responsiveness and control.

Higher-end sticks are also designed with advanced materials and technology, which not only reduce weight but also enhance performance and precision. However, these premium models tend to be slightly less durable due to their lighter construction. Major brands like CCM often offer multiple models of the same stick at different price points, each tailored to balance weight, durability, and cost.

Buying used gear is a sustainable way to score high-quality items at a fraction of the cost. Not only can you find great deals, but you might also stumble upon rare or discontinued gear that’s no longer available in stores. When buying a used hockey stick, here's what to look for:

✔️ Inspect the entire shaft length for visible cracks, dents, or fractures. Cracks can weaken the structure of the stick and affect performance.

✔️ Check the blade for cracks, chips, or signs of severe wear. A compromised blade can affect the stick's performance when shooting or passing.

✔️ Ensure the blade is securely attached to the shaft and shows no signs of being loose or wobbly. 

✔️ Ensure the stick hasn't been cut below its lowest flex indicator. Cutting it can significantly reduce its intended flex and affect performance. If the stick appears altered in length, check the flex indicator to confirm it's intact.

✔️ Examine the blade's edge for excessive wear or chips, especially along the toe and heel. Worn edges can affect puck handling, shooting accuracy, and the ability to get a good grip on the ice. 

How to Read the Chart

• Curve Type & Depth: A deeper curve = easier lift but less predictable backhand. Shallower = more accurate passes and better backhand shots.
• Lie: Lower numbers keep the blade flatter on the ice for upright skating posture; higher lies suit players who skate with bent knees and keep the puck close.
• Blade Length: Longer blades = better reach & puck protection; shorter = quicker puck handling.

Quick Fit Tips

• Beginners: Start with a mid curve (P88 or P92) for versatility.
• Forwards: Toe or mid-toe curves (P92, P28) for quicker releases.
• Defensemen: Heel curves (P02, P14) for clearing and slap shots.
• Backhanders: Shallower mid curves (P88) keep the backhand alive.