Tuning and Waxing Guide: Snowboards

There’s nothing worse than finally getting to the mountain on a perfect powder day—only to strap in, point downhill, and feel your board drag like it’s glued to the snow. Your heart’s racing, your stoke is high, but your ride feels sluggish. That sinking realization hits: you should have waxed.

A well-tuned snowboard makes all the difference. Waxing keeps your base fast and smooth, and protects it from dirt, wear, and dryness. You should aim for a fresh wax every 3–6 days on the hill—or even weekly if you’re riding hard. Pair it with regular edge work to stay sharp for icy conditions, and a little detune at the tip and tail to keep things playful.

Pro tip: Always loosen—or remove—your bindings before you wax. Leaving them tight can leave pressure marks, trap heat, and even damage your base.

---

If you don't feel like spending $20- $75 to get your board waxed at the local or mountain shop, you can 100% do it yourself. Here's how: 

Essential Tools You'll Need

Here’s a list of what you should have on hand:

• Screwdriver (to loosen/remove bindings) 

• Waxing iron (not for clothes) and snowboard wax (preferably all-temp) 

• Plastic scraper, nylon or brass brush, Scotch-Brite (or scouring) pad

• Base cleaner or “hot scrape” method materials

• Edge tuning kit: file with guide, diamond stone, gummy stone, possibly an edge tuner (you can wax without edge tuning) 

• P-tex candle (and lighter/scraper) for minor base repairs

---

Step-by-Step Guide

A. Prepare & Clean

1. Loosen or remove bindings to avoid base indentations and ensure flat waxing surface.

2. Clean the base with a dry rag and/or base cleaner (or use a hot scrape prep wax).

B. Base Repair (if needed)

• For gouges or scratches: drip P-tex into the scratch, allow to cool, then level it with a scraper.

C. Edge Tuning

1. Remove rust and burrs with a gummy stone.

2. Use a file and guide to set bevel angle (typically 88–90°). Choose sharper for grip (89–88°) or mellower for easier turns (90°).

3. Refine with a diamond stone, then polish with gummy stone.

4. Optional: detune the tip and tail slightly to reduce hook-ups—file gently at contact points, then polish.

D. Waxing

1. Heat wax onto the base using drip or chalk method. Use even coverage—don’t over-stay or burn base.

2. Spread with iron in small circles or strokes. Keep moving to avoid overheating.

3. Let it cool for 20–30 minutes.

4. Scrape excess wax from tip to tail, angled at ~45°.

5. Finish with Scotch-Brite pad or nylon brush, and optionally a brass or horsehair brush to structure the base for better glide.

E. Reassemble

• Re-attach and securely tighten your bindings—remember that loosening was only temporary for maintenance.

---

Quick Reference Summary