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Flex refers to the stiffness of the stick – technically, the "flex number" is the amount of pressure required to bend the stick one inch.

In determining what flex is best for you, a good rule of thumb is to divide your body weight (in pounds) by 2. Example: If you weigh 160 pounds, a good starting point would be an 80 flex stick.

But it's also important to bake in height, as shown here:

Age Group Height Weight (lbs) Recommended Flex
Youth (3-5) 3'0"-3'10" 30-65 35
Youth (6-8) 3'10"-4'8" 50-80 40/45
Junior (7-13) 4'4"-5'1" 70-110 50/55
Intermediate (11-14) 4'11"-5'4" 95-125 60
Intermediate (12-14) 5'2"-5'8" 100-140 65/70
Senior (14+) 5'5"-5'10" 125-175 75/80
Senior (14+) 5'7"-6'1" 150-200 85/90/95
Senior (14+) 5'10"-6'4" 180-235 100/105
Senior (14+) 6'1"+ 210+ 110/115

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A hockey stick pattern refers to the specific shape and curve of the blade. Different patterns are designed to optimize performance for various playing styles and positions.

Finding the right pattern for you is about fit – but there are a few important things to keep in mind.

The heel, mid, and toe refer to where in the blade most of the "curve" lies. Players focused on generating high-velocity slapshots (like defensemen) might prefer a heel; those whose games center on handling and control may prefer toe, and most will find "mid" curves to their liking. Many patterns fall between two of the three.

Pattern: Best for: Examples: Descriptions:
Toe Toe drags, quick releases Bauer P28 (mid-toe), CCM P28 (mid-toe), Warrior W28 (mid-toe), True TC4 (mid-toe) Most of the curve is in the toe of the blade. 
Mid All-around play, backhand shots Bauer P29, CCM P29, Warrior P03, Warrior P88, Bauer P88, CCM P88 Between toe and heel, most of the curve is in the 'middle' of the blade.
Heel Backhand shots, handling in tight spaces Bauer PM9 (mid-heel), CCM P14 (mid-heel), Warrior W01, True MC2 Most of the curve is in the base of the blade. 

Pro stock sticks are custom-made sticks created by manufacturers for high-level hockey players - anywhere from the NHL down to major junior. These customizations can apply to features such as flex profiles, blade patterns, shaft dimensions, paint jobs, and almost anything else you can think of.

Generally, pro stock sticks are made with slightly different (and higher quality) materials than their retail counterparts, often leading to better durability and overall performance. Players and resellers alike can get a hold of these sticks - new and used - from pro, college, and junior teams, and many of them end up for sale on SidelineSwap.

Pro stock sticks will sometimes be “dressed” to look like different models, so always check descriptions and ask sellers to make sure you know what you’re buying.

Stick length is measured by placing the stick flat against a wall from the floor to the top of the stick.  

To determine the best length stick for you, follow these steps: 

Stand without skates:

  • Place the toe of the stick on the ground between your feet.
  • The top of the stick should reach your nose.

Stand with skates:

  • The top of the stick should reach your chin.

This measurement is just a general guideline, and you may prefer a slightly longer or shorter stick based on your playing style and personal preference.

 

Cheaper sticks, which typically start around $50, are significantly heavier, making them less maneuverable and harder to handle. As you move up in price, sticks become lighter, offering improved responsiveness and control.

Higher-end sticks are also designed with advanced materials and technology, which not only reduce weight but also enhance performance and precision. However, these premium models tend to be slightly less durable due to their lighter construction. Major brands like CCM often offer multiple models of the same stick at different price points, each tailored to balance weight, durability, and cost.